Yerevan Food Culture
Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences
Culinary Culture
Yerevan's culinary identity centers on ancient grains, fresh mountain herbs, and dishes cooked in the traditional tonir oven, with lavash bread serving as both utensil and staple. The cuisine emphasizes communal dining with abundant mezze-style spreads, where meals are never rushed and hospitality is expressed through generosity. Armenian food culture balances preservation of centuries-old traditions with a growing contemporary food scene that reinterprets classics while honoring their origins.
Traditional Dishes
Must-try local specialties that define Yerevan's culinary heritage
Khorovats (Խորոված)
Armenian barbecue featuring chunks of marinated pork, lamb, or chicken grilled over open flames or hot coals. The meat is typically marinated in onions, pomegranate, and spices, resulting in tender, smoky perfection. Served with grilled vegetables, lavash, and fresh herbs.
Considered the national dish of Armenia, khorovats has been prepared since ancient times and is central to celebrations, family gatherings, and weekend outings. The tradition of outdoor grilling is so important that Armenians have a saying: 'Without khorovats, there is no celebration.'
Dolma (Դոլմա)
Grape leaves stuffed with a mixture of ground meat (usually beef and lamb), rice, herbs, and spices, slowly cooked until tender. Served with matsun (Armenian yogurt) and garlic. Seasonal variations include vegetables like peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants stuffed with the same mixture.
Dolma-making is a communal activity traditionally performed by women in Armenian families, with recipes varying by region and family. The dish represents patience and care, as preparing dolma properly requires hours of careful rolling and slow cooking.
Lavash (Լավաշ)
Thin, soft flatbread baked in a tonir (underground clay oven), creating a slightly charred, chewy texture with a distinctive smoky flavor. This unleavened bread is used to wrap kebabs, scoop up food, and is essential to every Armenian meal.
UNESCO-recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage, lavash-making dates back millennia and holds deep cultural significance. Traditionally baked by women, it was stored dried and rehydrated with water, making it practical for long journeys and harsh winters.
Harissa (Հարիսա)
A hearty porridge-like dish made from korkot (cracked wheat) and chicken or lamb, slow-cooked for hours until the meat disintegrates and blends with the wheat into a creamy, comforting consistency. Served with melted butter on top.
Associated with Armenian resilience and survival, harissa was traditionally prepared during times of hardship and is now served during commemorations of the Armenian Genocide. The dish symbolizes unity, as all ingredients meld into one.
Ghapama (Ղափամա)
A festive dish of pumpkin stuffed with rice, dried fruits (apricots, prunes, raisins), nuts, honey, and butter, baked until the pumpkin is tender and caramelized. The combination creates a sweet-savory flavor profile that's uniquely Armenian.
A celebratory dish traditionally served at weddings and holidays, ghapama even has its own folk song. The dish represents abundance and prosperity, with the pumpkin symbolizing fertility and the mixed ingredients representing diversity in unity.
Khash (Խաշ)
A powerful, gelatinous soup made from boiled cow's feet and head, seasoned only with garlic and served with dried lavash that's crumbled into the broth. Traditionally eaten early in the morning with vodka and no spoons—bread serves as the utensil.
Originally a peasant dish using leftover animal parts, khash evolved into a beloved winter tradition and social ritual. Eaten exclusively in cold months, khash gatherings are legendary all-night affairs involving toasts, songs, and camaraderie.
Zhingyalov Hats (Ժենգյալով հաց)
Flatbread stuffed with a mixture of 10-20 different finely chopped herbs and greens (including spinach, cilantro, parsley, beet greens, and wild herbs), cooked on a griddle until crispy. No cheese or meat—just pure herbal goodness.
Originating from Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh), this dish reflects the Armenian mastery of wild herbs and greens. The number of herbs used is a point of pride, with some recipes calling for up to 30 different varieties.
Manti (Մանթի)
Armenian dumplings filled with spiced ground meat (usually lamb or beef), baked until crispy on the bottom, then topped with matsun (yogurt), garlic, and sumac. The yogurt's tanginess perfectly balances the rich meat filling.
While variations exist throughout Central Asia and the Caucasus, Armenian manti is distinguished by being baked rather than steamed and served with the signature yogurt-garlic sauce that appears throughout Armenian cuisine.
Gata (Գաթա)
A layered pastry filled with khoriz (a sweet mixture of flour, butter, and sugar), creating a flaky, buttery dessert that's not overly sweet. Regional variations include different shapes and fillings, with some versions incorporating nuts or dried fruits.
Traditionally baked for holidays and special occasions, gata is so beloved that different Armenian regions compete over whose version is superior. A coin is often baked inside for good luck during New Year celebrations.
Spas (Սպաս)
A refreshing cold soup made from matsun (yogurt), water, and dzedzadz (cilantro), sometimes with wheat or barley added for texture. Served chilled, it's tangy, herbaceous, and incredibly refreshing on hot summer days.
An ancient dish that showcases Armenia's yogurt-making tradition and the importance of fresh herbs in the cuisine. Spas represents the practical Armenian approach to using dairy products to create cooling, nutritious meals.
Basturma (Բաստուրմա)
Air-dried, heavily spiced beef cured with a paste of garlic, fenugreek, paprika, and other spices called chaman. The result is intensely flavored, paper-thin slices of cured meat with a distinctive aroma and complex taste.
With origins in the Byzantine Empire, basturma became an Armenian specialty, with the craft passed down through generations. The name derives from the Turkish 'bastirma' (pressed meat), but Armenian basturma is distinguished by its unique spice blend.
Anush Abour (Անուշ Աբուր)
A sweet pudding made from whole wheat berries, dried fruits, nuts, and honey, served warm or cold. The wheat is cooked until tender, creating a porridge-like consistency studded with pomegranate seeds, almonds, and walnuts.
Traditionally prepared for New Year and special celebrations, anush abour symbolizes abundance and sweetness for the coming year. The dish reflects Armenia's agricultural heritage and the importance of preserved fruits and grains.
Taste Yerevan's Best Flavors
A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.
Browse Food ToursDining Etiquette
Dining in Yerevan is a social ritual steeped in tradition, where hospitality is paramount and meals are opportunities for connection. Armenians take pride in their generous hosting, and understanding local customs will enhance your dining experience and show respect for this ancient culture.
Toasting Culture
Toasting (called 'kenats') is an integral part of Armenian dining, especially when alcohol is involved. The tamada (toastmaster) leads toasts throughout the meal, and each toast has meaning—to health, friendship, homeland, or family. Toasts are heartfelt and can be lengthy, with everyone expected to participate.
Do
- Wait for the tamada to initiate toasts before drinking
- Make eye contact when clinking glasses
- Take at least a sip after each toast, even if you're not drinking much
- Stand for important toasts, particularly to elders or Armenia itself
Don't
- Don't drink before the first toast is made
- Don't rush through toasts—they're meaningful, not perfunctory
- Don't refuse to participate in toasts entirely, as it can be seen as disrespectful
- Don't cross arms when clinking glasses—it's considered bad luck
Hospitality and Portions
Armenian hospitality is legendary and sometimes overwhelming. Hosts and servers will continuously offer more food, and tables are typically laden with far more than can be consumed. Refusing food repeatedly can be seen as rejecting the host's generosity, though gentle persistence in declining is eventually accepted.
Do
- Accept at least small portions of offered dishes to honor your host
- Compliment the food genuinely and specifically
- Try a bit of everything on the table
- Expect the host to insist multiple times—this is normal and affectionate
Don't
- Don't expect to finish everything—it's meant to show abundance
- Don't clear your plate completely if you're full—it signals you want more
- Don't refuse food abruptly without explanation
- Don't be surprised if the host seems offended by initial refusals—keep politely declining if necessary
Dining Pace and Socializing
Meals in Yerevan are leisurely affairs, often lasting several hours, especially dinners with family or friends. The focus is on conversation, connection, and enjoying each other's company as much as the food itself. Rushing through a meal is considered strange and even rude.
Do
- Settle in for a long meal, especially at dinner
- Engage in conversation between courses
- Allow time for multiple rounds of tea or coffee after the meal
- Be patient with service—it's not slow, it's appropriately paced
Don't
- Don't rush or show impatience
- Don't ask for the check immediately after finishing your meal
- Don't schedule tight plans after dinner reservations
- Don't eat and leave quickly—it's considered disrespectful to the dining experience
Table Manners
While Armenians are generally relaxed about formal table manners, certain practices are standard. Bread (lavash) is sacred and should be treated with respect. Elders are served first and given positions of honor at the table.
Do
- Wait for elders to begin eating before you start
- Use lavash to scoop food or wrap kebabs
- Keep your hands visible on the table (not in your lap)
- Offer to share dishes family-style
Don't
- Don't waste bread or throw it away carelessly—it's considered disrespectful
- Don't start eating before everyone is served (unless encouraged to)
- Don't put lavash face-down on the table
- Don't reach across elders for food
Breakfast
Breakfast (nakhachas) is typically served between 8:00-10:00 AM and tends to be lighter than other meals. Common items include cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, lavash, butter, honey, and jam, often accompanied by strong Armenian coffee or tea. Many locals grab quick pastries like gata or pakhlava from bakeries.
Lunch
Lunch (chash) runs from 1:00-3:00 PM and is traditionally the main meal of the day, though this is changing with modern work schedules. Business lunches are common, and many restaurants offer lunch specials. Expect substantial portions with soup, salad, and a main course.
Dinner
Dinner (entrik) typically begins around 7:00-9:00 PM and is the most social meal, often extending until midnight or later. This is when families gather, and restaurants fill with groups enjoying lengthy, multi-course meals. Weekend dinners are particularly festive and can last several hours with music, toasts, and abundant food.
Tipping Guide
Restaurants: 10% is standard and appreciated in restaurants, though service charges are rarely included. For exceptional service or upscale establishments, 15% is generous. Cash tips are preferred, left on the table or handed directly to the server.
Cafes: Tipping in cafes is less expected but rounding up or leaving 5-10% for table service is appreciated. For counter service (coffee to go), tipping is optional but small change left in the tip jar is welcome.
Bars: In bars, round up the bill or leave 10% for good service. If you're running a tab, tip at the end. For simple drink orders at the bar, leaving 100-200 AMD per drink is sufficient.
Tipping culture in Yerevan has grown with tourism but isn't as ingrained as in Western countries. Service staff appreciate tips but won't show disappointment if you don't leave one. In very casual establishments or street food vendors, tipping isn't expected at all.
Street Food
While Yerevan doesn't have the bustling street food culture of some Asian or Latin American cities, it offers a growing scene of casual outdoor vendors, market stalls, and grab-and-go eateries, particularly around central areas and markets. The street food scene reflects Armenian preferences for fresh, substantial food rather than quick snacks. Many of the best 'street food' experiences happen at markets like GUM or Vernissage, where vendors sell freshly baked goods, dried fruits, and simple prepared foods. During summer, outdoor grilling becomes more common, with pop-up khorovats vendors appearing in parks and popular gathering spots. The culture leans more toward casual eateries with outdoor seating than true street carts, but the food is equally authentic and often cheaper than sit-down restaurants.
Gata and Pakhlava
Fresh-baked pastries sold from bakery windows and market stalls. Gata is buttery and flaky with sweet filling, while pakhlava is layered with honey and nuts. Both are perfect for breakfast or afternoon snacks.
Bakeries along Abovyan Street, GUM Market, Vernissage Market, bakery windows throughout the city center
300-800 AMD per pieceZhingyalov Hats
Herb-stuffed flatbread cooked fresh on griddles, crispy on the outside with a burst of green herb flavor inside. Completely vegetarian and incredibly satisfying.
Specialized stands near Republic Square, Vernissage Market area, casual eateries with outdoor counters
500-1,000 AMDSujuk and Basturma
Spiced dried sausage (sujuk) and cured beef (basturma) sold by weight at market stalls. Vendors often offer samples, and these make excellent quick protein snacks or picnic supplies.
GUM Market, Vernissage Market, delicatessens around Northern Avenue
2,500-4,000 AMD per 100gFresh Lavash
Warm lavash sold directly from tonir ovens, often still steaming. The smoky, slightly charred bread is incomparable when fresh and can be eaten plain or with cheese.
GUM Market, bakeries with visible tonir ovens, residential neighborhoods with traditional bakeries
100-300 AMD per sheetGrilled Corn (Eghjeghik)
Fresh corn on the cob grilled over coals and brushed with butter and salt. A simple summer treat popular in parks and gathering areas.
Swan Lake area, parks near Cascade, outdoor vendors in Republic Square during summer
300-500 AMD per earDried Fruits and Fruit Leather (Ttu Lavash)
Armenia's exceptional dried apricots, mulberries, and fruit leather made from pureed fruits dried in sheets. These traditional snacks showcase Armenia's fruit-growing heritage.
GUM Market, Vernissage Market, dried fruit specialty shops near Republic Square
1,000-3,000 AMD per 200gBest Areas for Street Food
GUM Market (Central Market)
Known for: Fresh produce, dried fruits, nuts, spices, fresh lavash, cheese, and prepared foods. The epicenter of Yerevan's food shopping with incredible variety and authentic atmosphere.
Best time: Weekday mornings (8:00-11:00 AM) for freshest selection and to see locals shopping; avoid Sunday when some vendors are closed
Vernissage Market
Known for: Weekend market known for crafts but also featuring food vendors selling gata, dried fruits, honey, and traditional sweets. More tourist-oriented but authentic products.
Best time: Saturday and Sunday mornings (9:00 AM-2:00 PM) when the market is fully operational
Republic Square and Northern Avenue
Known for: Casual eateries, bakeries, and cafes with outdoor seating and takeaway windows. Good for zhingyalov hats, pastries, and coffee.
Best time: Late afternoon and evening (5:00-9:00 PM) when the area comes alive with locals and outdoor dining
Cascade Complex Area
Known for: Trendy cafes, outdoor vendors in summer, and upscale casual dining. More contemporary food scene with international influences alongside Armenian classics.
Best time: Afternoon through evening (2:00-10:00 PM), especially weekends when outdoor areas are most vibrant
Mashtots Avenue
Known for: Traditional bakeries, small eateries, and authentic neighborhood food spots frequented more by locals than tourists.
Best time: Morning (8:00-11:00 AM) for fresh bread and breakfast items, or lunch hours (1:00-3:00 PM)
Dining by Budget
Yerevan offers exceptional value for food, with costs significantly lower than most European capitals while maintaining high quality. Fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and generous portions mean even budget dining feels substantial. The Armenian dram (AMD) exchange rate typically favors foreign visitors, making the already affordable food scene even more accessible.
Budget-Friendly
Typical meal: 800-2,000 AMD per meal
- Eat your main meal at lunch when many restaurants offer cheaper lunch specials
- Shop at GUM Market for fresh ingredients—prices are negotiable and much lower than restaurants
- Look for 'khoravats' signs in residential areas for authentic, cheap barbecue
- Buy fresh lavash (100-300 AMD) and cheese/vegetables for simple, satisfying meals
- Avoid restaurants directly on Republic Square or Northern Avenue where tourist pricing applies
- Ask locals for 'karavan' (cafeteria-style) restaurants where workers eat—authentic and cheap
Mid-Range
Typical meal: 3,000-6,000 AMD per meal
Splurge
Dietary Considerations
Yerevan's dining scene is increasingly accommodating to various dietary needs, though traditional Armenian cuisine is heavily meat-focused. Vegetarians will find options easier than vegans, and the abundance of fresh produce, herbs, and grains means creative solutions exist. Communication about dietary restrictions requires patience, as the concept of specialized diets is still developing in traditional establishments.
Vegetarian & Vegan
Vegetarian options are readily available, as Armenian cuisine includes many vegetable-based dishes and dairy features prominently. Vegan dining is more challenging but increasingly possible, especially in modern cafes and international restaurants. Traditional restaurants always have vegetable side dishes, salads, and herb-based dishes.
Local options: Zhingyalov hats (herb-stuffed flatbread), Vegetarian dolma (stuffed vegetables without meat), Ghapama (stuffed pumpkin with rice and dried fruits), Spas (cold yogurt soup - vegetarian, not vegan), Eggplant rolls with walnut paste, Grilled vegetables (often served as side dishes), Various bean and lentil soups, Fresh salads with pomegranate and herbs, Lavash with cheese and herbs, Mushroom dishes in season
- Learn the phrase 'Yes misapor em' (I'm vegetarian) though explaining 'without meat' (arants msis) is often clearer
- Specify 'no meat broth' as vegetable dishes are sometimes cooked in meat stock
- For vegans, emphasize 'no dairy, no eggs' (arants katnateri, arants havu) as these are ubiquitous
- Modern cafes and restaurants in Cascade area have better vegan understanding
- GUM Market is excellent for fresh produce, dried fruits, nuts, and bread to self-cater
- Request modifications—chefs are usually accommodating if you explain clearly
- Armenian salads and vegetable mezze can make satisfying meals when combined
Food Allergies
Common allergens: Nuts (especially walnuts) used extensively in sauces and desserts, Dairy products (matsun yogurt, cheese, butter) in many dishes, Wheat (in lavash, pastries, and as thickener), Sesame (in tahini-based sauces), Eggs (in pastries and some meat dishes)
Write down your allergy in Armenian and English to show servers and chefs. Many younger staff speak English, but in traditional restaurants, visual aids help. Be specific about severity—Armenians may not fully understand the concept of severe allergies versus preferences. Ask about ingredients in sauces and marinades, as nuts and dairy can be hidden.
Useful phrase: Yes allergia unem... -in hamar (I have an allergy to...). For severe allergies: 'Sa shat vteravora' (This is very dangerous for me)
Halal & Kosher
Halal options are limited but growing due to increasing tourism from Muslim countries. Several restaurants in central Yerevan now advertise halal meat. Kosher options are virtually non-existent, as Armenia has a tiny Jewish community. However, fish and vegetarian dishes provide alternatives.
Some Middle Eastern restaurants in Yerevan serve halal meat. Ask at your hotel for current halal-certified restaurants, as this is evolving. For kosher needs, focus on vegetarian/fish restaurants or self-catering from markets where you can verify ingredients. The abundance of fresh produce, fish, and dairy at GUM Market allows for self-prepared meals.
Gluten-Free
Gluten-free dining is challenging in Yerevan, as wheat is fundamental to Armenian cuisine (lavash, pastries, wheat-based soups). However, naturally gluten-free dishes exist, and awareness is slowly growing in modern establishments. Some cafes now offer gluten-free bread alternatives.
Naturally gluten-free: Khorovats (grilled meat without marinades containing wheat), Most grilled fish and chicken dishes, Dolma (grape leaves stuffed with rice and meat), Fresh salads without croutons, Grilled vegetables, Rice pilaf (verify no wheat is added), Matsun (yogurt) plain or in drinks, Fresh fruits and dried fruits, Spas soup (verify no wheat/barley added), Eggplant dishes without breading
Food Markets
Experience local food culture at markets and food halls
GUM Market (Tashir Street Market)
Yerevan's main food market, a sprawling complex where locals shop daily for fresh produce, meat, dairy, spices, and prepared foods. The market is divided into sections with incredible variety—pyramids of pomegranates, walls of dried fruits, fresh herb bundles, and vendors selling everything from honey to homemade pickles. The atmosphere is authentic and sometimes chaotic, with vendors calling out prices and offering samples.
Best for: Fresh seasonal produce at rock-bottom prices, dried fruits and nuts, fresh lavash, Armenian cheese varieties, spices, fresh herbs, honey, and observing local food culture. Perfect for self-catering or assembling picnic supplies.
Daily 8:00 AM-6:00 PM, best visited mornings (8:00-11:00 AM) for freshest selection. Most crowded on Saturdays; some vendors closed Sundays.
Vernissage Market
Primarily known as a crafts and antiques market, Vernissage also features food vendors selling traditional Armenian products, especially dried fruits, fruit leather (ttu lavash), honey, spices, and baked goods. More tourist-oriented than GUM but offers quality products and the chance to buy food alongside souvenirs.
Best for: Packaged Armenian food products to take home, high-quality dried apricots and fruit leather, honey from different regions, traditional sweets like gata and pakhlava, Armenian spice blends.
Saturdays and Sundays 9:00 AM-5:00 PM, most vibrant 10:00 AM-2:00 PM. Located near Republic Square, easily combined with sightseeing.
Pak Shuka (Green Market)
A smaller, more local market frequented primarily by neighborhood residents. Less overwhelming than GUM, with excellent fresh produce, herbs, and a more intimate atmosphere where vendors have time to chat and offer recommendations.
Best for: Seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh herbs, a more relaxed market experience, interacting with local vendors who may offer cooking tips.
Daily 8:00 AM-7:00 PM, best mornings. Located in residential areas; ask locals for the nearest one.
Yerevan Mall Food Court and Dalma Garden Mall
Contemporary food courts offering both international chains and Armenian fast-casual options. While less authentic than traditional markets, they provide clean, predictable environments with diverse options including vegetarian and international cuisines.
Best for: Air-conditioned eating in summer, family-friendly dining with varied options, international food cravings, clean facilities, and food courts with multiple choices for groups with different preferences.
Daily 10:00 AM-10:00 PM. Located throughout the city with good accessibility.
Gourmet Dourme and Similar Specialty Shops
Upscale food shops selling premium Armenian products, imported goods, artisanal cheeses, wines, and specialty items. These shops curate the best of Armenian food production alongside international products.
Best for: High-quality Armenian wines to take home, artisanal cheeses, premium basturma and sujuk, gift-quality food items, hard-to-find ingredients.
Daily 10:00 AM-9:00 PM, located in central areas and upscale neighborhoods.
Seasonal Eating
Armenian cuisine is deeply connected to seasons, with dramatic shifts in available produce and traditional dishes throughout the year. The continental climate means distinct seasons with different culinary focuses—summer abundance of fruits and vegetables gives way to preserved foods and hearty dishes in winter. Seasonal eating isn't a trend in Yerevan; it's necessity and tradition, with markets and menus reflecting what's currently growing in Armenia's valleys and highlands.
Spring (March-May)
- Fresh herbs emerge—wild greens foraged from mountains appear in markets
- First vegetables of the season including radishes, green onions, and tender greens
- Apricot blossoms signal the coming fruit season
- Easter celebrations featuring traditional dishes and painted eggs
- Matsun (yogurt) production increases as dairy becomes more abundant
Summer (June-August)
- Apricot season peaks (Armenia's most celebrated fruit)
- Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and eggplants at their best
- Outdoor khorovats season in full swing with parks filled with grills
- Watermelons and melons piled high in markets
- Fresh mulberries, cherries, and berries from mountain regions
- Outdoor dining culture thrives with restaurants extending to sidewalks and gardens
Autumn (September-November)
- Grape harvest and wine-making season
- Pomegranates arrive—used fresh and in juices
- Quince, persimmons, and late-season fruits
- Pumpkin season for ghapama
- Walnut harvest used in sauces and desserts
- Preserving season—families make pickles, jams, and dried fruits for winter
Winter (December-February)
- Khash season—the traditional hangover soup eaten early mornings
- Preserved foods dominate—pickles, dried fruits, fruit leather
- Root vegetables and winter squash in hearty dishes
- New Year celebrations with elaborate feasts
- Dried fruit compotes and fruit leather snacks
- Indoor dining culture with cozy tonratuns and live music